📌 Power Banks - MiddlingPicks Guide - Find Your Product Match

Find the lifeline of dead batteries, the last stand between you and the dreaded shutdown.

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Respecting Your Time: The TL;DR Version

We get it—you don’t always have time to read an entire guide on choosing a power bank (even if it’s as stylishly written as this one). So here’s your quick and dirty recommendation:

• For phones, earbuds, and the usual daily suspects? → Get the Anker Nano. Tiny but mighty.

• For handheld consoles and laptops? → Anker Laptop Power Bank with built-in cables. No need to carry extra cords like a tech hoarder.

• For a charger / power bank combo that’s way cooler than anything your device manufacturer includes? → Anker Prime 9600mAh.Wall-plug goodness, and acts as a 65W charging brick. Looks better, handles better, and charges better.

That’s it. This is the triple hit golden combo. If you trust us blindly, grab one of these and carry on with your day.

However… if you like making an informed decision (or just enjoy an unnecessarily deep dive into portable battery tech), let’s break it all down. Buckle up, because choosing the right power bank is more complicated than it should be.

The Great Power Bank Dilemma: Why Are There So Many?!

So, you need a power bank. Should be simple, right? Just pick a black rectangle with a battery inside and call it a day. There is a flood of choices, specs, and numbers. Suddenly, you’re forced to care about things like mAh, output wattage, fast-charging protocols, and whether you'll get flagged at airport customs (TSA sure has strict opinions on battery sizes).

But don’t worry—we’ve done the legwork, so you don’t have to.

The biggest factors to consider when choosing a power bank are:

✔ Capacity (how much juice it holds)

✔ Charging speed ( wait 8 hours for a charge? no thanks)

✔ Portability (pocket friendliness)

✔ Compatibility (not all USB-C ports are created equal)

✔ Extras that may or may not matter (displays, built-in cables, solar panels)

Let’s break it all down, starting with the most misunderstood spec: capacity.

Capacity: The Bigger, The Better… Or Is It?

Alright, mAh vs. Whr. Time to nerd out a little—but fair warning, this rabbit hole is deep. If you’re already breaking out in a cold sweat, feel free to skip ahead. Otherwise, let’s get into it.

mAh vs. Whr: What’s the Difference?

• mAh (milliamp-hours) = The number that power banks love to slap on the box.

• Wh (watt-hours) = The number that actually tells you how much usable energy you’re getting.

Why do companies use mAh instead of Wh?

Because bigger numbers sound better. A 20,000mAh power bank sounds more impressive than a 74Wh one, even though they’re often the exact same thing. Marketing, baby.

Why Whr Is the Better Metric

mAh measures capacity based on battery voltage (which varies between different devices).

Whr measures total energy output (a universal metric, unaffected by voltage differences).

Still with me?

Most power banks have lithium-ion cells that run at 3.7V or 3.85V internally. But your phone, tablet, or laptop charges at 5V, 9V, 12V, or even 20V. So when you plug in a power bank, energy gets converted, and some is lost as heat.

How to Convert mAh to Whr (The Truth Behind Energy Loss)

Formula:

(mAh × battery voltage) ÷ 1,000 = Whr

Example:

A 20,000mAh power bank with 3.7V lithium cells:

(20,000 × 3.7) ÷ 1,000 = 74Wh (actual stored energy).

But here’s the kicker: Energy loss.

You don’t get the full 20,000mAh because power conversion is inefficient.

Step 1: The power bank’s internal cells run at ~3.7V

Step 2: It boosts output to 5V, 9V, 12V, or 20V to charge your device.

Step 3: Energy is lost as heat (10-30% loss depending on efficiency).

Therefore, a 20,000mAh power bank realistically delivers ~13,000-15,000mAh to your device.

Still here? Phew.

What this means for you:

• If a power bank claims to charge your iPhone 4 times, assume 3 real charges.

• If a laptop needs 60W to charge, a 74Wh power bank might only last ~1 hour.

• The bigger the voltage difference, the more energy loss. In other words, the faster a device is being charged (higher voltage), the more energy is loss to heat.

Most manufacturers don’t disclose efficiency rates, but you can estimate:

General Rule of Thumb:

• Low-quality power banks → 60-70% efficiency.

• Mid-range power banks → 75-85% efficiency.

• Premium, high-end power banks → 90%+ efficiency.

So, if a power bank says “charges your phone 5 times!” → Assume closer to 3-4 real charges.

Final Verdict: What You Actually Need to Know

• Ignore mAh hype. Look at Whr instead.
• Expect ~15-30% energy loss due to conversion inefficiency.
• If you need a power bank for laptops, make sure it has enough Whr for real-world usage.

Ports & Outputs: More Than Just Holes in a Box

So, you’ve got your mAh vs. Whr knowledge locked in, and now you’re staring at a power bank with four different ports, each labeled with mysterious numbers and letters. USB-A, USB-C, PD, QC, PPS—who knew charging could be this complicated? Let’s make sense of it all.

USB-A vs. USB-C: The Evolution of Charging

• USB-A: The old-school, chunky rectangular port you’ve been using for decades. If your power bank only has USB-A, it’s behind the times.

• USB-C: The modern standard. Smaller, reversible, and capable of delivering higher power for faster charging. Most new power banks rely on USB-C for both input and output.

Charging Speed: Wattage Matters More Than You Think

Charging speed depends on wattage (W), not just the port type. Here’s what you need to know:

• 5W: The speed of an ancient iPhone charger. Avoid.

• 18-30W: Decent for phones and tablets.

• 45-65W: Can handle laptops, Steam Deck, and power-hungry devices.

• 100W+: High-powered beasts that charge MacBooks and gaming laptops.

If you want fast charging, look for Power Delivery (PD) or Quick Charge (QC) support.

Fast Charging Standards Explained

• Power Delivery (PD): The universal standard for USB-C fast charging. Found in most good power banks.

• Quick Charge (QC): Qualcomm’s fast-charging tech, mainly for Android phones. Not as universal as PD.

• Programmable Power Supply (PPS): Adjusts voltage dynamically for Samsung Super Fast Charging and some laptops.

Multiple Ports: Do You Need More?

• Single-port power banks are great if you only charge one device at a time.

• Two or more ports are useful if you’re charging a phone and a laptop, or sharing with someone else.

• Pass-through charging lets you charge the power bank while using it to charge another device. This spec means it is highly efficient at power and heat management!

What to Look for in Ports

• If your power bank is USB-A only, skip it—it’s outdated.

• USB-C with PD is the way to go.

• Multiple ports = more flexibility (but check the output wattage per port).

Size & Weight: Do You Even Lift, Bro?

Portability is a tradeoff between size and battery capacity. Do you want a sleek, pocketable power bank, or are you okay with carrying a mini brick?

The Three Power Bank Categories

1. Compact (5,000-10,000mAh)

• Fits in a pocket.

• Good for phones and earbuds (1-2 charges).

• Example: Anker Nano 10,000mAh.

2. Mid-Range (10,000-20,000mAh)

• Balances power and portability.

• Ideal for phones, tablets, and handhelds.

• Example: Anker 737 Power Bank (24,000mAh).

3. High-Capacity (20,000-50,000mAh)

• Bulkier but great for laptops and long trips.

• Some airlines ban power banks over 100Wh (check before flying).

• Example: Anker Laptop Power Bank (25,000mAh).

Rule of thumb: If it fits in your pocket, it won’t power a laptop. If it can charge a laptop, you’ll notice its weight. (Except the smallish Anker Prime 9600, which does BOTH).

Extra Features: Overkill or Genius?

Modern power banks come with extra bells and whistles, but do you actually need them?

• Built-in cables: Convenient, but if they break, the power bank is useless.

• Digital displays: Shows exact battery % left instead of vague LED dots.

• Wireless charging: Cool, but wastes energy and charges slower than wired.

• Solar panels: Sounds great, but they’re mostly gimmicks unless you’re camping for weeks.

• Pass-through charging: Lets you charge the power bank while it charges your device.

Best extras: Digital displays, pass-through charging, and high-efficiency fast charging support.

Brands: Does Name Matter?

You’ll find countless no-name power banks on Amazon promising massive mAh at suspiciously low prices. Here’s why brand matters.

• Anker, Baseus, INIU, RavPower → Trusted, reliable, well-reviewed.

• Random brands with 50,000mAh for $20? → Probably fake or poorly made.

Red Flags to Avoid

• Unrealistic capacity claims. If a brand claims 100,000mAh for $30, it’s fake.

• No certifications. Reliable power banks have UL, CE, or FCC safety markings.

• Bad reviews mentioning overheating or battery swelling.

Good rule of thumb: Stick to established brands with real reviews.

Real-World Use: Find Your Product Match

For travelers:

• Compact 10,000mAh power bank for quick charges.

• TSA-approved (under 100Wh) for carry-on luggage.

For gamers:

• 20,000-30,000mAh power bank for Steam Deck, Switch, or gaming laptops.

• Fast-charging USB-C with 65W+ output.

For survivalists:

• High-capacity 50,000mAh+ with solar charging (only if serious about off-grid life).

• Weatherproofing and durability.

For everyday users:

• Anker Nano for daily phone use.

• Anker Prime 9,600mAh for a stylish, fast-charging experience.

Final MiddlingPicks Verdict: The “Just Right” Power Bank

Choosing the right power bank isn’t about getting the biggest number—it’s about getting what fits your life.

• Want something small and simple? Get an Anker Nano (10,000mAh).

• Want a balance of power and portability at a good price? Get an Anker 737 (24,000mAh).

• Need a laptop charger with real power? Get the Anker Laptop Power Bank (25,000mAh).

• Want something cooler than stock chargers? Anker Prime 9,600mAh wins.